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  • Industry Talks – Fabio Cavina Plurimus

    Time to interview Fabio Cavina, formely co-founder of Nemen and 12th Man brands and now with it’s own brand Plurimus, focusing on technical outerwear with strong military inspiration. Let’s hear what he has to say on our Industry Talks section.

    plurimus logo

     

    1. What type of music do you listen to?

    I listen to music everyday, most of the day. I find music an essential background for my work and for my life in general. I tend to listen to different styles of music, although my favourite has always been rock music, I have been listening to a lot of Bowie and Pearl Jam over the last couple of years. I really enjoy going to concerts too when I can. I think I have a rock soul, in the same way that I don’t like to conform to rules.

    2. How’s a typical day for you?

    I don’t do the same things everyday, which is another part of my job that I really like.
    Also, what I do is not the typical 9 to 5 job so I find myself working on weekends at time, while I might take a day off during the week etc. There are days when I just design and days when I am on the road visiting suppliers etc. If possible, I do some running at lunch time, I started doing that a few years ago and found it a very helpful way to focus on things, ideas etc. All in all, it is a bit difficult to describe a typical day since I don’t have one.

    3. What is your Plurimus team like?

    The Plurimus team is very small and very big at the same time. Plurimus is my solo project, there is just me behind it and I like it this way. I am totally free to do what I want, the way I want.
    I do everything by myself, I design, source fabrics, reply to customers, post images on social media, I would say that Plurimus is really a 360 degrees project.
    At the same time, when looking at things from a different perspective, the Plurimus team is actually quite big, if I were to include the suppliers I work with.
    I like to work with passionate people who are both good at what they do and reliable, and I have worked and selected a supplier network over the years.
    I pretty much consider them an essential part of my project.

    4. Workwear, heritage, sportswear, streetwear, Ivy League… what is your cup of tea?

    Workwear and Military apparel are my main fields of inspiration. Functionality is an essential part of a garment in my view. Yes, it has to look good too but the main focus of the design is and always will be functionality.

    5. What brands have you been wearing lately? And which brands from the past would you give a round of applause?

    I tend to wear pretty much the same style, actually. Basically comfortable things with pockets. There was a time in my life when I had to wear a jacket and tie everyday for my job and I kind of hated that.

    6. What would you change in the menswear industry?

    Ok, how much time do you have? Just kidding …
    I believe that there are many things that need changing in the fashion industry. Actually, that is one of the reasons why I started Plurimus. I wanted to work with my own rules and have total control on my project.I believe the market has changed dramatically over the past 10 years and the formula that worked back then does not work anymore these days, at least for new and upcoming brands which are small-medium sized.
    I am not even sure the old concept of “seasons” works anymore.
    Designers are working under continuous stress in order to meet tighter and tighter deadlines. Many retailers have been struggling and the web has become the main source when it comes to buy a jacket or a pair of trainers. The standard distribution chain makes it difficult to actually have a direct contact with the end user, which are the people who actually wear the garments and who will give you a precious feedback.
    With a few exceptions, I don’t see this process stopping, on the contrary.

    www.plurimus.it

     

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  • Industry Talks – Richard Illingworth Hawkwood Mercantile

    Our Industry Talks interviews return, this time with a recent brand – Hawkwood Mercantile.

    Hawkwood Mercantile is a recent British brand founded by Richard Illingworth. Originally from North East England, he relocated to India with his family a few years ago and started to put his ideas into practice. Clearly influenced by vintage, workwear and military garments, he has a small team of local tailors working with him and producing everything in-house.

    Let’s hear what Richard has to say in our Industry Talks Q&A.

    hawkwood richard

    1. What type of music do you listen to?

    Anything good really. I love soul, punk, reggae, hip hop, indie & everything in between. Growing up I liked the Sex Pistols & The Clash, then The Specials & the whole 2 Tone thing, but the first band I really loved were The Smiths. I find more & more that I’m working backwards & listening to older music, like MC5, The Stooges, Velvet Underground, The Small Faces & The Supremes. The bands of my teenage years like Talking Heads, Pixies & The Stone Roses always be close to my heart, hang on, I haven’t even mentioned Joy Division! Sorry, I could go on for days. I’ve just checked iTunes & I’ve played ‘There’s A Ghost In My House’ by R. Dean Taylor more times than any other song, although I think I should point out, I have also played ‘Jolene’ by Dolly Parton 91 times apparently. Don’t judge me.

    2. How’s a typical day for you?

    I get up about 6am & make coffee while getting the kids (we’ve got 5 year old twins) ready, then I do the school run. I come back & have breakfast, then feed the dogs, we’ve got 3 & I also feed about 15 street dogs who live on & around our block. I’ll get into work & set the tailoring schedule. As well as all the design, I still bag & tag each garment myself & give it a final check while doing so. Quite often I’ll be working on new samples or taking photos to put on Instagram. After that it’s back home to do bedtime for the kids & then maybe watch an episode of Narcos or Westworld whilst catching up on emails (I still deal with all clients directly & I’m often up late doing that because of the time difference) before falling asleep. It’s really very unglamorous, but I’m happy & feel extremely lucky.

    3. What is your Hawkwood Mercantile team like?

    I‘ve got 4 tailors & a master tailor & we make everything in house, making to order & cutting & sewing each piece one at a time. It’s made from start to finish by one tailor which is quite old fashioned & increasingly rare these days. They’re a good bunch & we have a laugh, despite or perhaps because they don’t speak much English & I speak very little Hindi. I also share a studio with my wife who has her own company doing production (it must have been her playing Dolly Parton while I was out doing stuff, yes that’s it, honest).

    4. Workwear, heritage, sportswear, streetwear, Ivy League… what is your cup of tea?

    Probably none of them, but all of them at the same time. I love workwear, vintage military & outdoor clothing, but don’t really feel comfortable with labelling things like that. I was living in New York in the mid-Nineties round the corner from Supreme & Alife during the birth of what became know as streetwear. It was pretty exciting but I’ve always hated the term if I’m honest, a bit like the term ‘heritage’ too, which just sounds retro & a bit like dressing up if you know what I mean?. I still like to do the Ivy thing every now & then, but I think it’s something you need to do obsessively to get spot on. It’s great if you can carry it off mind.

    5. What brands have you been wearing lately? And which brands from the past would you give a round of applause?

    If I’m not wearing my own stuff or vintage then I might be wearing Engineered Garments or maybe Post Overalls, although I do happily mix in pieces from high street stores like H&M as that’s all you can get in Delhi & I’m not a snob. I love Nigel Cabourn’s stuff & also a whole load of Japanese brands, especially Corona. With regards to the past, The Duffer of St. George was probably the single most important label to me & I even wrote my college thesis on them. As part of that I interviewed Kenneth MacKenzie who was their head of sales at the time & I have a huge amount of respect for what he’s done with 6876, not only in terms of design, but also in his approach to business.

    6. What would you change in the menswear industry?

    I don’t think I’ve seen enough of it to find anything negative & see it as something quite distinct from fashion, which is pretty loathsome. I’m pretty isolated out here in India, but I’ve actually been amazed by how nice & helpful people from other companies have been. Hopefully once I start doing trade shows & the like I’ll be able to start some feuds with other labels & find things to bitch about. I’ll keep you posted.

    www.hawkwoodmercantile.com

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  • New Stockist: Varsity Project Bratislava

    Time to introduce a new stockist, this time in Slovakia’s capital Bratislava!

    Varsity Project is a clothing label and retailer owned and operated by David A. Raksany, always on the search for well tailored classic clothing with a contemporary modern fit and finish. What started as a passion and an idea has grown into the companies founding blocks.
    Varsity Project has a goal to provide clothing that is well made at a reasonable price, joining their own brand with other quality brands that match their ethos.
    Their concept store -“GENTRY – A Gentlemans Sin” – is located in the centre of Bratislava, in Sturova 10 at the Tulip House Boutique Hotel. The store offers a relaxed club atmosphere with select brands from around the world where you can find among others Novesta, Grenson, LA Bruket, Red Cotton Denim, Evocha.
    Their logo stands for the roman symbol of war and peace, thus, trying to find a harmony in everything they do. Classically tailored clothing made by tradesman with a heritage or story to tell. Each of Varsity products is selected carefully, and never mass produced.
    Varsity Project has quickly established itself for offering a new approach to apparel and works with athletes, artists and tradesmen to find a perfect harmony of balance in every field.
    Quality Haberdashers since 2013.
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    varsity project
    varsity bratislava store inside
    varsity project bratislava
    gentry store bratislava

    http://varsity.sk

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  • Pinta Green Work Jacket Video

    And last but not least, our 4th Video features the mighty Pinta Work Jacket in Green colourway.

    The Pinta Work Jacket is a new product for Autumn/Winter 16 with deep workwear influences in this style, a typical work jacket with a distinctive green pattern.
    Shot in the centre of our hometown Porto, we tried to capture the best out of this jacket, highlighting the green fabric used. Underneath you can also see one of our latest shirts – The colourful Bojador Kentucky Shirt.

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  • Eanes Sweatshirt + Flanar Shorts Video

    The 3rd of our Video Series comes with the Eanes Sweatshirt, our signature logo sweat, a crew neck sweatshirt made with 100% cotton fabric in navy colour, with Newfangle logo printed in white. A strong and effective branding. The name “Eanes” honours a great Portuguese navigator, the first to cross the Bojador Cape (at that time known as the Cape of Fear) which strengthened the role of Portugal as a maritime nation.

    We paired up the Eanes sweatshirt with the Flanar shorts, another product we released recently in collaboration with Casual Connoisseur.

    Shot in a fantastic location in the estuary of the Douro River, more specifically near the Lighthouse and with a powerful and magical fog. As proper Portugeezers, this video was filmed after a substantial lunch of “Tripas à Moda do Porto” (tripe).

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